Local know-how

Line up on the platform marks and let people off before you get on. Keep your phone on silent (“manner mode”) and don’t take calls; keep bags off the seats and wear a backpack on your front when it’s crowded. Priority seats are for elderly, disabled, pregnant and injured passengers. Rush hour — roughly 7:30–9:30 and 17:30–19:30 on weekdays — is genuinely packed, so avoid it on days you are carrying a big bag; some lines run women-only cars then (pink signs). Eating is fine on the shinkansen but not really on local commuter trains.

Many ramen, gyudon and set-meal places order by machine — buy a meal ticket from the vending machine by the door first (often cash, sometimes Japanese only — look for photos or numbers), then hand the ticket to the staff and sit, usually at the counter. Water or tea is often self-serve and free, and slurping your noodles is perfectly fine. Return your tray or dishes if a sign asks.

There’s no tipping in Japan — trying to leave extra just causes confusion, and good service is standard. You usually pay at the register on the way out, not at the table; put your cash on the little tray rather than into the hand. Prices are increasingly shown tax-included, but not always. Splitting the bill (warikan) is common; many small places are cash only.

Public toilets are everywhere, free and clean — convenience stores, stations and department-store basements are safe bets. The high-tech “washlet” looks alarming but is simple: buttons for a warm-water wash (おしり) and bidet (ビデ), a stop button (止), and flush by 大 (big) / 小 (small) or a lever. The panel may be on the wall. Some places still have squat-style toilets, and a few have no paper — carry tissues, and remember the separate toilet slippers.

You’re never far from a charge. Many cafés (and chains, family restaurants, karaoke rooms and manga cafés) have outlets by the seats — look under the table or ask. Convenience stores, airports and big stations have spots too, and there are rental power-bank machines (like ChargeSPOT) you unlock with an app and return anywhere. Carry a small power bank for the road, and bring a Type-A plug adapter — Japan runs on 100V.

Free public wifi is patchy, so most visitors pick up an eSIM or a pocket wifi (easy at the airport) to stay online. For walking, Google Maps is fine, but for trains a transit app like Yahoo Norikae or Japan Travel (Navitime) shows platforms, transfers and fares more clearly — save an offline map too. An IC card (Suica, PASMO, ICOCA and friends, now usable almost nationwide) saves buying tickets, though a few rural lines are cash only. Keep a little cash and a charged phone.

It’s often the opposite of what you expect — in many city wards you must NOT smoke while walking on the street (there are fines), but some cafés, bars and izakaya still allow smoking indoors. Look for a smoking area (喫煙所) or a designated corner, and never toss butts on the ground. Heated-tobacco and vaping follow the same spot rules.

People greet with a small bow, not a handshake or hug — a nod back is plenty. Keep your voice low on trains and in public, and don’t point at people or beckon with a finger (wave with your whole hand, palm down). Queues are sacred: line up and never cut in. Staff are unfailingly polite, so be polite back — and a polite “sumimasen” gets attention, means “excuse me” and “sorry,” and thanks someone all at once. When in doubt, quieter and more patient reads as respectful.

At homes, ryokan, temples, some restaurants and clinics you take your shoes off at the entrance (genkan) — step up onto the raised floor in your socks without touching the lower level, and line your shoes up facing out. Wear the slippers provided, but take them off on tatami mats (socks only). The classic trap: there are separate toilet slippers just inside the toilet — swap into them, and remember to swap back when you leave (walking out still wearing them is the giveaway). Keep your socks clean and hole-free.

Japan feels different from place to place — standard Japanese is understood everywhere, but you may hear local dialects (in Kansai, “ookini” means thanks, “nanbo” means how much). The mood varies too — some areas are chatty and warm, others quieter and more indirect; none of it is unfriendly. When unsure, match the locals’ volume and pace, and a polite greeting goes a long way.

Some rules change by place — on escalators people stand on the left in Tokyo but on the right in Osaka; trash-sorting rules differ by city; some small shops and bars are cash only; and you take your shoes off where you see a raised step (genkan) or tatami. When you’re not sure, copy what the locals do or just ask.

A few chopstick habits carry funeral meaning, so avoid them: never stand chopsticks upright in rice, and never pass food chopstick-to-chopstick — set it on a plate instead. Don’t stab food, wave your chopsticks around or dig through a dish to pick. Lift small rice and soup bowls toward you rather than leaning down, say “itadakimasu” before and “gochisōsama” after, and don’t rub disposable chopsticks together (it hints they’re cheap). Slurping noodles is welcome; blowing your nose at the table is not.

At an izakaya you’ll usually get a small dish you didn’t order (otōshi) — it’s a seat charge, not a mistake. All-you-can-drink (nomihoudai) has a time limit and a last-order time, and the table often orders together. The hot towel (oshibori) is for your hands. You pay at the register on the way out, not at the table, and there’s no tipping.

Tiny counter bars — a “snack” run by a mama, or the alley bars of Golden Gai — are fun but their rules surprise people. Most add a small seat charge or a compulsory snack (otōshi), so ask the charge before you sit, and bring cash (many are cash only). Some are regulars-only; peeking in and moving on is fine, keep voices down in the alleys, and ask before photographing people. ★ Never follow a street tout who offers to walk you to a bar — that’s the classic overcharging trap; choose places with prices posted.

Some Japanese foods are safe only when a pro prepares them. Fugu (pufferfish) can be deadly and is served only by licensed chefs — never prepare or buy it to cook yourself. Wild game (boar, deer, bear) and river fish must be thoroughly cooked — raw can carry parasites or hepatitis. A little raw sea fish can hold anisakis worms (good restaurants freeze or check for them). And never eat wild mushrooms or plants you foraged yourself — look-alikes cause serious poisoning every year. Enjoy these from trusted places, not DIY.

Bow lightly at the torii gate, and rinse your hands (and mouth) at the water basin. Don’t walk down the exact centre of the path — that’s for the gods. At a shrine: two bows, two claps, one bow; at a temple: press your palms quietly, no clapping. A goshuin (calligraphy stamp) is a respectful memento, not a collect-them-all game — bring a stamp book and receive it kindly. Photo rules vary — look for signs.

A quick way to tell them apart: a Shinto shrine (jinja) has a torii gate at the entrance and you clap when you pray; a Buddhist temple (o-tera) has a larger roofed gate and often a big incense burner and a statue of Buddha, and you do NOT clap — just press your palms quietly. At a temple’s incense burner, you may waft a little smoke over yourself; both welcome respectful visitors of any faith.

Wash and rinse your body at the showers before getting in; no swimwear; keep your small towel out of the water and tie up long hair. Baths are usually separated by sex and everyone bathes without clothes. ★ Many onsen don’t allow tattoos — check ahead, use a cover patch, or book a private bath. In the sauna it’s bath → cold plunge → rest, kept quiet.

For cherry-blossom viewing, spread a sheet on the ground; if you want a good spot, someone usually arrives early to hold it. Don’t take a spot that’s already laid out, take all your rubbish home, and never pull or climb the branches. Some parks limit alcohol, barbecues or reserving — check the park’s rules before you go.

At festivals and fireworks the crowd can get so dense you can’t move. Agree on a meeting spot in case you get separated, keep to the edges, follow the staff and one-way routes, hold children close, and leave a little before the finale to avoid the crush.

Lots of places ban photos — many shops, some temples, museums and station areas — so look for a “no photography” sign (撮影禁止) and skip the flash and tripod. Don’t photograph people without asking; in Kyoto’s Gion, photographing geiko/maiko (“geisha”) on private streets can bring a fine. When in doubt, don’t shoot.

However viral a spot gets, graffiti, scratching your name, or sticking stickers on walls, signs, torii gates or trees is vandalism — a crime in Japan (kibutsu-sonkai), and the police do pursue it. Don’t climb on shrine or temple structures, statues or railings, and don’t pick flowers or carve bark. Treat the place exactly as you’d want your own home treated: look, enjoy, leave it untouched.

Fan “pilgrimages” to anime, film and drama locations are welcomed — but many are ordinary neighbourhoods, level crossings or private streets (like the Slam Dunk railway crossing in Kamakura). Never stand on the tracks or road for a photo, don’t block the crossing, traffic or shopfronts, and don’t step into gardens, driveways or doorways. Keep your voice down in residential areas, take your rubbish home, and follow any guards or signs. The people who live there make the view possible.

Some tourist activities look fun but have catches — street go-karts need a valid international or Japanese licence and can be tiring and exposed in traffic. Check the rules, price, what’s included and recent reviews before you book.

Sightseeing bus tours (e.g. Hato Bus in Tokyo) come in many types — half-day or full-day, city loops or day trips, some with English guides or audio, some including meals. Pick by length, language and what’s included — handy when you want to see a lot without planning routes.

Gift-giving is an art. People bring back omiyage (edible souvenirs) for colleagues and hosts, and offer or receive a gift with both hands — it’s often set aside politely rather than torn open in front of you, so don’t be surprised, and ask before opening. There’s no tipping in restaurants or taxis (it just confuses). At a ryokan, a small “kokorozuke” thank-you can be given quietly in an envelope, but it’s never expected. Nice wrapping matters more than the price.

Fuji is only for the official season — roughly early July to early September (dates and trail rules change yearly, and some trails now need a reservation, a gate time and a fee — check the official site). Outside that the huts are shut, there’s no first aid, and the cold and weather can kill — don’t attempt it. Skip the “bullet climb” (straight up overnight with no sleep): rest in a mountain hut to avoid altitude sickness. Even in summer the summit is near freezing, so bring warm layers, rain gear, a headlamp, water and cash — trainers and a hoodie are not enough.

Real bears live in Japan’s mountains and forests — the Asian black bear across Honshu and the brown bear in Hokkaido — and sightings near trails and even towns have risen. On hikes wear a bear bell or make noise, avoid dawn and dusk, and never leave food or rubbish out. Watch for “bear warning” signs (熊出没注意). If you do meet one, don’t run or approach it (never a cub) — back away slowly and keep it in sight. Carry your phone and tell someone your route.

Typhoon season runs roughly summer into autumn (worst around August–October): trains run a planned suspension and flights are cancelled, so check the forecast and don’t travel into a storm — floods and landslides are the real danger. Summer heat is fierce too — drink often, take shade and watch for heatstroke. Your phone may suddenly blare a J-Alert for quakes or severe weather; follow it, and follow your hotel and the official JMA/NHK guidance.

Work out your way back before you head out. City last trains are often around midnight, but in the countryside the last train or bus can be early evening — and some rural buses run only a few times a day. Miss it and you’re facing a pricey taxi or waiting till morning (a capsule hotel, a karaoke box or a manga café). Check the last departure (shūden) for your line, keep a map app handy, and give yourself a buffer.

A few things are legal at home but a serious crime here. Cannabis and most recreational drugs are strictly illegal in Japan — even a small amount can mean arrest and deportation, whatever your country allows. Some everyday medicines are restricted too: certain cold, allergy and ADHD medicines (for example those with pseudoephedrine or stimulants) can be banned, and you may need a “yakkan shoumei” permit — check the health ministry site before you pack them. Drones are tightly regulated (registration, no-fly zones), and carrying knives or buying a real sword has strict rules — ask the shop. When unsure, check the official site.

At the beach, swim only where it’s allowed and watch the flags — a red flag means no swimming. Rip currents pull you out fast; if caught, don’t fight it, float and swim sideways along the shore. Rivers are the quiet danger: the water can surge within minutes when it rains upstream or a dam releases, even under a blue sky, so don’t pitch a tent or barbecue on the riverbed and leave early if the water clouds or rises. Life jackets save lives — follow local signs, and never swim after drinking.

On summer trails, a few small things bite back. Giant hornets (suzumebachi) turn aggressive near their nests in late summer — don’t swat, back away quietly, and skip strong scent. Japan has venomous snakes (mamushi, and habu in Okinawa) — watch where you step and don’t reach into grass or rocks. Leeches (yamabiru) and centipedes (mukade) live in damp woods, and lacquer-type plants (urushi) give a nasty rash. Long sleeves, insect repellent and staying on the path go a long way; if a sting brings swelling or trouble breathing, get help fast.

Snow country is beautiful but catches people out. Icicles and roof snow can fall and injure — don’t linger under the eaves, and mind “falling snow” signs. Roads and footpaths turn to ice, so wear grippy soles, take small steps, and never drive without studless winter tyres or chains (rental cars in snow regions come fitted for it). A whiteout can erase the road in seconds, so don’t push on in a blizzard. Dress in warm layers against the cold and frostbite, and check the forecast and road closures before you set off.